|
There are no easy answers to the question of
which size, shape, and type of construction will best meet your
needs, when it comes time to choosing the style of pool for your
home.
Today, because of modern materials,
engineering, and building techniques, there are countless type of
pools, spas, fountains, and ponds. Many pool builders keep a photo
library of their installations along with contact numbers for the
owners. A visit to some of these pools will provide you with a
first-hand look at styles that might suit your needs and taste.
There are a variety of factors to consider;
personal tastes, pool use, the conditions of the site, the types of
construction available in your area-and, of course, your budget. Do
research by speaking to pool owners in your neighborhood, and, if
possible, visiting some award-winning sites.
Personal tastes and how the pool will be used
are the most important considerations. Geographical area, weather
conditions, site conditions and landscape requirements will affect
your decision on the size and shape of your pool. Water fitness and
therapy are other common uses for pools. If you are interested in
either activity, a smaller pool will suffice.
Personal
Needs
Choose a pool that can accommodate all types
of swimming activity. To satisfy those who enjoy swimming laps, the
pool should feature a long, straight section with parallel ends.
Your family falls into both these groups, For example, the shallow,
short leg of an L-shaped pool can be large enough for the
frolickers, and the other leg can be long enough for the lap
swimmers.
The architectural layout that "form
follows function" applies particularly to a pool's size and
shape. If you plan to have a diving area, there is considerable
debate over what constitutes safe depth and diving well size. Pool
and spa experts recommend a pool depth of 9 feet that extends 25
feet for maximum safety. Contact one of the following organizations:
National Spa and Pool Institute; United States Diving, Inc.;
National Swimming Pool Foundation for more information about pool
and spa building, safety and other guidelines.
Many pool users splash and play in shallow
water and do little, if any, swimming. For this purpose, figure a
minimum depth of 36 inches, increasing to 4 or 5 feet. Do not
consider building wading pool just because you have small children,
they quickly outgrow it and take to the main pool with the rest of
the family. You can build a separate wading pool that can later be
converted into a garden pond, or install a platform, available
commercially, that converts spas into wading pools.
Regular and daily swimmers-those who use the
pool often for exercise need a depth of at least 31/2 to 4 feet so
they don't touch bottom while swimming, and can safely negotiate
tumble turns at the pool's ends. There is an alternative for serious
swimmers with neither the space nor desire for a long pool. You can
exercise well by swimming against a current generated by a separate
pumping system.
If the pool will be a training center for
competitive swimmers, make the length 75 feet. Then they can develop
a style usable for competitive meets. Width is not critical-some lap
pools in side yards are just wide enough for one swimmer 10 feet.
Pool
Size
Pool can be of any size and shape but the area
available will be the most important factor as to how big pool can
be constructed.
Calculating a pool's area in square feet is
the first step in determining data such as pool gallons, maximum
bather loads.
Most experts agree that a pool measuring at
least 16 by 32 feet is needed for a full range of play activities.
The trend-which began in the late 1970s is toward smaller pools.
There are a great many residential swimming pools in the United
States and world that range from 450 square feet i.e. 15 by 30 feet
in dimension to 800 square feet i.e. 20 by 40 feet in size.
Shallower pools with flat-bottom are also
becoming common, with home owners opting for slope ratio of 1: 12,
with a water depth of 4 feet. The exception being for diving, and
some specialized uses such as some types of therapy, Scuba, or
synchronized swimming, a deep section actually increases maintenance
costs and safety risks is often unnecessary.
A small pool is cheaper to filter and heat,
and takes less effort to maintain and requires less water and
chemicals, and small can be very beautiful too. Pool and Spa
builders and professionals observing these trends attribute them not
only to lower installation costs, but also to smaller lots,
condominium and townhouse living, and economy of operation and
maintenance. Though the trend is to smaller pools these days, you
should choose a pool that's large enough to accommodate your needs.
Pool
Shape
Free form pools can be of any shape or size. A
naturalistic pool is also usually simple in shape. The simpler the
shape of your pool, the better it will blend into a landscaped
setting and enhance the appearance of your property.
Pool Shapes developed from squares,
rectangles, circles, ovals, and other simple geometric figures will
not compete with the landscaping. But making it so much a part of
nature that there is hardly any delineation between the pool and its
environment usually requires the skill of a top landscape architect.
A point to consider is that a naturalistic pool is not easy to
integrate into a residential lot, may require more maintenance if
plants are used close to the pool, and will probably be more
expensive.
If your lot is small and wedge-shaped, for
example, your pool will also have to be wedge-shaped. Or to
integrate a tree or other natural feature that's valuable to you,
you may need to plan for a bend in one side of a pool. Unusual pool
shapes are difficult to plan well because they compete with the
other elements in your landscape. But sometimes an unusual shape is
the best, or only, choice. Whatever your situation, always plan your
pool carefully before installation and set aside extra space for
access and poolside activities.
Capacity calculations involves calculating
surface area and volume of the pool or spa. The next sections
describes in detail all the capacity calculations.
Calculating
Surface Area
Calculating a pool's area in
square feet is the first step in determining data such as pool
gallons, maximum bather load and others.
Geometric Formulas
A simple method of calculating
pool size is the use of geometric formulas. Following are the basic
formulas and calculations to determine surface areas;
|
A |
Area |
|
L |
Length |
|
W |
Width |
|
H |
Height |
|
r |
Radius |
|
d |
Diameter |
| Pi |
3.14 constant |
Area of a square or
rectangle
A = L x W
Area of a right triangle
A = (L x W)/2
Area of a circle
A = Pi x r x r
Calculating
Volume
The cubic volume can be
calculated by including the depth of the pool with the surface area.
For accurate calculations, the pool should be divided into various
areas according to the depth. The sections below explains how to
calculate the volume of your pool or spa.
Square or rectangular -
Constant Depth
Length x width x depth x 7.5 =
volume (in gallons)
Length times width gives the
surface area of the pool. Multiplying that by the depth gives the
volume in cubic feet. Since there are 7.5 gallons in each cubic
foot, multiply the cubic feet of the pool by 7.5 to arrive at the
volume of the pool (expressed in gallons).
Square or rectangular -
Variable Depth Pools
Length x width x average depth
x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
Length times width gives the
surface area of the pool. Multiplying that by the average depth
gives the volume in cubic feet. Since there are 7.5 gallons in each
cubic foot, multiply the cubic feet of the pool by 7.5 to arrive at
the volume of the pool (expressed in gallons).
Measure the length, width, and
average depth of the pool, rounding each measurement off to the
nearest foot or percentage of one foot. One inch equals 0.0833 feet.
Therefore, multiply the number of inches in your measurements by
0.0833 to get the appropriate percentage of one foot.
| Example:
25 ft, 9 in. |
=
25 ft + (9 in. x 0.0833)
= 25 + 0.75
= 25.75 ft |
If the shallow end is 3 feet
and the deep end is 9 feet, and assuming the slope of the pool
bottom is gradual and even, then the average depth is 6 feet.
Average depth = ( Depth at the
shallow end + Depth at the deep end ) / 2
Average depth = ( 3 + 9 ) / 2
= 6 feet.
If most of the pool is only 3
or 4 feet and then a small area drops off suddenly to 10 feet, you
will have a different average depth. In such a case, you might want
to treat the pool as two parts. Measure the length, width, and
average depth of the shallow section, then take the same
measurements for the deeper section. Calculate the volume of the
shallow section and add that to the volume you calculate for the
deeper section.
Make sure to use the actual
water depth in your calculations, not the depth of the container.
For example, the hot tub depicted in Figure 2 is 4 feet deep, but
the water is only filled to about 3 feet. Using 4 feet in this
calculation will result in a volume 33 percent greater than the
actual amount of water. This could mean serious errors when adding
chemicals for example, which are administered based on the volume of
water in question. There might be a time when you want to know the
potential volume, if filled to the brim. Then, of course, you would
use the actual depth (or average depth) measurement. In the example,
that was 4 feet.
Length x width x average depth
x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
25.75 ft x 10 ft x 6 ft x 7.5
= 11,587.5 gallons
Circular
The formula:
3.14 x radius squared x
average depth x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
The number 3.14, refers to pi,
which is a mathematical constant. The radius is one-half the
diameter, so measure the distance across the broadest part of the
circle and divide it in half to arrive at the radius. Squared means
multiplied by itself, so multiply the radius by itself. For example,
if you measure the radius as 5 feet, multiply 5 feet by 5 feet to
arrive at 25 feet.
Use the hot tub to calculate
the volume of a round container. Let's do the tricky part first. The
diameter of the tub is 10 feet. Half of that is 5 feet. Squared
(multiplied by itself) means 5 feet times 5 feet equals 25 square
feet. Knowing this, you can return to the formula:
3.14 x radius squared x average
depth x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
3.14 x 25 ft x 3 ft x 7.5 =
1766.25 gallons
In measuring the capacity of a
circular spa, you might need to calculate two or three areas within
the spa and add them together to arrive at a total volume. An empty
circular spa looks like an upside-down wedding cake, because of the
seats. Therefore, you might want to treat it as two separate
volumes-the volume above the seat line and the volume below. In the
wooden hot tub, where there is actually water above and below the
seats, the tub can be measured as if there are no seats because this
difference is negligible.
Kidney or irregular shapes
There are two methods used to calculate the
capacity of irregular shapes. First, you can imagine the pool or spa
as a combination of smaller, regular shapes. Measure these various
areas and use the calculations described previously for each square
or rectangular area and for each circular area. Add these volumes
together to determine the total capacity.
0.45 x (A+B) x length x average
depth x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
The total of measurement A
plus measurement B multiplied by 0.45 multiplied by the length gives
you the surface area of the kidney shape. (A + B = 18 feet). The
rest of the calculations you are now familiar with. Try this volume
calculation:
0.45 x (A+B) x length x average
depth x 7.5 = volume (in gallons)
0.45 x 18 ft x 25 ft x 5 ft x
7.5 = 7593.75 gallons
Parts Per Million (ppm)
One of the most important
calculation you will use is parts per million (ppm). The amount of
solids and liquids in the water is measured in parts per million, as
in three parts of chlorine in every one million parts of water (or 3
ppm).
To aid in understanding the
formulas and terminology used, following is the list of common terms
and their equivalents
Square foot (sq. ft.) =
12 inch wide x 12 inch long
Cubic foot (cu. ft.) =
12 inch wide x 12 inch long x 12 inch high
Cubic yard (cu. yd.) = 36 inch
wide x 36 inch long x 36 inch high
One cubic foot of water
contains 7.48 gallons
One cubic foot of water weighs
62.4 pounds
One gallon of water weighs
8.33 pounds
One part per million (ppm)
represents 8.3 pounds of chemical per million gallons of water.
However, one gallon of
chlorine, for example, poured into one million gallons of water does
not equal 1 ppm. That is because the two liquids are not of equal
density. This becomes obvious since a gallon of water weighs 8.3
pounds but a gallon of chlorine weighs 10 pounds (in a 15 percent
solution). The chlorine is a more dense liquid-there's more of it
than an equal volume of water
Modern materials, engineering, and building
techniques, allow countless types of pools, spas, fountains, and
ponds. Here are some of the most common. You will find that others
are variations of these basic types.
Concrete
and Plaster
Concrete is the most popular construction
materials used for swimming pools. Concrete and plaster pools are
the most typical "hole-in-the-ground" pool, using
steel-reinforced concrete to form a shell. Because concrete is
porous, the shell is coated with plaster to hold water and for
cosmetic purposes.
Its workability, strength, permanence, and
flexibility of design make it ideal for innovative and interesting
in-ground and hillside pools.
Concrete can be sprayed over a latticework of
reinforcing steel bars (rebar) or forms, or it can be poured from a
mixing truck. The sprayed types are the most common because the
material is easier to work to create free-form shapes.
There are four main types of concrete
constructions
- Gunite - Sprayed concrete types include
gunite (an almost dry mix of sand and cement)
- Shotcrete (a wetter version of gunite).
- Poured concrete requires forms into which
the wet concrete is poured.
- Masonry blocks - Sometimes, the pool walls
are made of hollow block that is reinforced with rebar and
filled with poured concrete, but that is not common. They are
more common in countries where modern equipment is scarce.
Vinyl
Lined
The development of vinyl-lined or vinyl pools
has brought pool ownership within the budget of many people.
Vinyl-lined pools or spas are built as metal or plastic frames (less
frequently masonry blocks or pressure-treated wood is used) above
the ground or set into a hole in the ground. Prefabricated panels of
plastic, aluminum, or (rarely) wood are joined to the frame making a
form that is then lined with heavy vinyl to create the actual pool
shell.
The savings are greatest in the Northeast and
Midwest because of the difficulty of building with concrete in cold
climate. These pools require somewhat different treatment and
maintenance methods than a concrete pool. Prefabrication and easier
assembly make these pools less costly than concrete styles. Some
small units are made as do-it-yourself backyard kits consisting of
self-supporting aluminum or steel frames with a vinyl liner,
sometimes with stairs, decks, and equipment all packaged together.
Fading due to ultraviolet light is prevented
in some liners is prevented by the inclusion of ultraviolet
inhibitors in the vinyl material, some also have inhibitors that
prevent staining by fungi.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass pools or spas consist of a
fiberglass shell resting in a hole in the ground. Above ground
models are framed with metal or plastic like vinyl-lined pools. Some
concrete pools are lined with fiberglass instead of plaster and, in
fact, this process is becoming more popular because fiberglass
requires less maintenance than plaster.
Major improvements in the construction and
installation of fiberglass shells have overcome the problem of
leaking, buckling and adverse reaction to soil reactions.
Some fiberglass pools or spas are assembled
on-site from panels, some are an entire molded shell, and some are
fiberglass walls mounted on a concrete pool bottom.
Spas, if not built with a pool or as an
architectural feature in the home, are almost all some form of
fiberglass shell. These can range from a shell set directly into the
ground to small portable units that are self contained wooden frames
with wooden skirting containing the fiberglass spa and all the
equipment in one package.
The major drawback of the one piece fiberglass
mold is the limitation in size and shape. Since molds are massive
and expensive, manufactures offer only few models.
Inflatable
Inflatables are an inexpensive and portable
solution to the swimming or spa needs of many. Zodiac, makers of the
famous inflatable boat, and other manufacturers are now applying PVC
technology to pools and spas.
Wood
Spas and Hot tubs are made from a variety of
woods, most commonly redwood (but cedar, teak, mahogany, and more
exotic woods are also used). in fact, they can be made from any
wood, but those mentioned are most resistant to rot. The key to hot
tub installations is a well-drained area to keep moisture (which
sooner or later will rot any wood) away from the tub. Hot tub
assembly and installation are discussed in a later chapter.
Unless you have unlimited funds, your budget
may impose limitations on what type of pool you install. Begin by
planning the pool and surroundings you'd most like to have. Then
obtain at least three bids on the same plans to learn exactly what
your dream will cost. Once you have chosen a contractor, sit down
together to determine how you can bring the project within reach of
your budget.
Often, the solution is to defer parts of the
project. Because you planned both the pool and the surroundings, you
can eliminate those parts of the project that can be added later
with the least amount of increased effort and cost. A gazebo, for
example, can be built anytime. And with fiber optic technology, even
underwater lighting is easily added after the pool has been
installed.
The only absolute about the costs of the
various pool types is that the portable above-ground pool with a
vinyl liner is easier to install and considerably less expensive
than any type of permanent pool construction.
The cost of a permanent pool varies widely,
depending on a number of factors-size, shape, type and quality of
construction, equipment, surface options, location, and the
competitive situation among local pool builders.
Of the two most popular types of pools built
in the U.S.-the air sprayed mortar, or gunite, pool and the
vinyl-lined pool-the gunite pool is the more expensive. The
difference is not great in the Sunbelt states, but it is in the
colder northern climes, where more steel reinforcing rods and a
thicker shell are needed to withstand frost pressure. In general,
building your own pool requires a lot of hard work and skill,
especially for plumbing and electrical installation. It is a job
that is best left to a qualified professional.
Unless you have unlimited funds, your budget
may impose limitations on what type of pool you install. Begin by
planning the pool and surroundings you'd most like to have. Then
obtain at least three bids on the same plans to learn exactly what
your dream will cost. Once you have chosen a contractor, sit down
together to determine how you can bring the project within reach of
your budget.
Often, the solution is to defer parts of the
project. Because you planned both the pool and the surroundings, you
can eliminate those parts of the project that can be added later
with the least amount of increased effort and cost. A gazebo, for
example, can be built anytime. And with fiber optic technology, even
underwater lighting is easily added after the pool has been
installed.
The only absolute about the costs of the
various pool types is that the portable above-ground pool with a
vinyl liner is easier to install and considerably less expensive
than any type of permanent pool construction.
The cost of a permanent pool varies widely,
depending on a number of factors-size, shape, type and quality of
construction, equipment, surface options, location, and the
competitive situation among local pool builders.
Of the two most popular types of pools built
in the U.S.-the air sprayed mortar, or gunite, pool and the
vinyl-lined pool-the gunite pool is the more expensive. The
difference is not great in the Sunbelt states, but it is in the
colder northern climes, where more steel reinforcing rods and a
thicker shell are needed to withstand frost pressure. In general,
building your own pool requires a lot of hard work and skill,
especially for plumbing and electrical installation. It is a job
that is best left to a qualified professional.
The term "spa" is commonly used both
for wooden tubs and for the various acrylic and thermoplastic
vessels on the market. The hot tub was the earliest type of spa used
on a aide scale by homeowners. Once a rare sight in homes, spas have
become increasingly more common in recent years. Even if you don't
own one, chances are you've experienced a pleasurable soak in a
friend's spa or in one at a hotel or resort.
A hot tub-really just a wooden spa-offers the
natural beauty of wood. Surrounded by a wooden deck, it too can have
the appearance of an in-ground installation. For a contemporary
look, choose a portable or in-ground spa. Apart from the factory
molded shell shown at right, in-ground models can be made of
concrete and are constructed on site.
Natural Hot Tubs:
Whether it's made of redwood, cedar, teak, or
another wood, a hot tub also boasts a classic beauty. Soft and
rustic, hot tubs derive their appeal from their smooth wood
surfaces. And no wonder: The tub's simple lines reflect a barrel
design that has remained unchanged for centuries. With a greater
capacity than most other spas, hot tubs give a deep soak, which some
people prefer. A tub that's 4 feet deep can immerse you up to your
neck, thanks in part to more spartan seating options usually just a
bench around the sides-compared to the body-conforming contours
typical of other spa seats.
Tub lovers often comment that the wood
surrounding their soak feels good to touch. With a hot tub, you have
some flexibility in the number and placement of hydrojets. Or you
may choose to have no jets at all, opting instead for a gentle soak
in warm, still water.For all the natural luxury of wood, however,
some hot tubs have given their owners problems after a few years,
mainly due to neglect. For example, if the tub is drained and
allowed to dry for more than two days, leaks can develop between the
staves when the tub is refilled. This is because stave edges will no
longer swell evenly to create a continuous seal. And proper water
maintenance, necessary for any kind of spa, is especially important
for a hot tub. When cleaning, be sure to disinfect above the
waterline to remove any pathogenic organisms, such as bacteria, that
spread disease.
Plastic Spas:
Spas fall into two general categories:
in-ground and portable. The first-the older and more traditional
type-is sunk in the ground or placed in a deck, and the work is
usually performed by a contractor. The sleek, contemporary whirlpool
spas of today depart completely from the rustic simplicity of hot
tub designs.
The spa choices are dazzling, running the
gamut from small, two-person portables to tiled and landscaped
installations of splendid proportions. The portable, or
self-contained, spa comes as a complete unit, including its support
equipment, and doesn't need to be permanently installed.
Spa shells:
Today, spa shells are usually made from
acrylic. Large acrylic sheets are heated, laid in a mold, and pulled
to fit its contours with a vacuum. The cooled shell is then backed
with fiberglass for strength. The result: a slick, glossy, and easy
to clean material that is available in colors to suit any taste.
Poured concrete, gunite, and shotcrete are the
traditional materials for in-ground spas; concrete is still commonly
used for a spa installed at the same time as a concrete swimming
pool. But for spa that stand alone, concrete has been largely
superseded by fiberglass and plastic.
A good acrylic spa should give reliable
service for years, though it may get nicked and scratched along the
way. Occasionally, more serious problems develop. Unless carefully
engineered and molded, an acrylic shell can become quite thin at
sharp corners and susceptible to damage. And if anything goes wrong
when the fiberglass backing is applied, it can lead to delamination
between acrylic and backing later on. A careful visual inspection
will turn up any flaws, but the surest test of quality is the
manufacturer's reputation.
A portable spa is truly self-contained. Set-up
time and expense for these units is designed to be minimal. A recent
addition to the gallery of hot water products, the portable spa
seems well in tune with today's mobile lifestyle.
They can be installed outdoors with nothing
more than a concrete slab for support and may be run on your home's
standard 120-volt current. They can even be installed inside, if
proper precautions are taken to support their weight and adequate
ventilation is provided.
Sizing up the benefits:
Portables typically range in size from a 4 by
5 foot spa that holds about 125 gallons to an 8 foot one that
contains 500 gallons. The smallest seats two; the largest can
accommodate up to eight. With an average dry weight of 300 to 500
pounds, portables can be lifted, if you have enough helpers. And
because they're relatively shallow, with a water depth of between 26
and 36 inches, they will fit through a doorway, if turned on their
side. You can move them from one setting to another, whether from a
deck to a sunroom or from your old home to your new one.
Besides mobility, the other main advantage of
the portable spa is its relatively low cost. An excellent one can be
purchased for substantially less than an in-ground spa. And since
it's a self-contained appliance rather than a property improvement,
the portable spa usually requires no building permit (check with
your local building department to be sure); nor will it raise your
property taxes.
Operating the Spa:
Many portable spas run on 120 volts. But
before you bring one home, be sure to check out your home's
electrical system. If you have any doubt about a circuit's capacity
to support a 120-volt portable spa, have it checked out by a
licensed electrician.
Like the shell itself, the portable's
equipment heater, filter, pump, air blower, and hydrojets-is a
smaller, less powerful version of what would be necessary to support
a large, in-ground spa or hot tub. Each piece of equipment is
matched to the relatively small water volume of the portable, so the
spa functions more economically than a spa with larger equipment and
more water to heat. The quality of equipment can vary greatly from
one spa to another, so take this into consideration when deciding
which model you want to buy. Also make sure that the equipment is
properly sized for the volume of the spa and the number of hydrojets
it features.
The outlet you use for the spa must be part of
a 20-amp circuit that doesn't service any other heavy-draw
appliances. Nearly all portables are now equipped with ground fault
circuit interrupters (GFCI); as an added precaution, ensure that the
outlet or its circuit also has GFCI protection.
Another option offered by many spa
manufacturers is to run the equipment on 240 volts. This is
accomplished by adding a new circuit and hard-wiring the spa
directly to it. You will have to hire a licensed electrician or spa
contractor for this job. Although the spa will no longer be as
portable, you'll gain considerable heating speed. Also, with 240
volts you can run the heater simultaneously with the hydrojets or
blower for a long period of time, which is not possible with a
120-volt heater. Another advantage of a 240-volt system is that you
can use a 6-kilowatt heater, which will raise water temperature more
quickly than a small 120-volt, 1.5-kilowatt heater hence, a shorter
wait before you can enter the spa. It also means that the spa can
more easily maintain a steady temperature of I 00' to 104'E A
smaller heater can have trouble keeping up with heat loss.
Gas heaters, or gas packs, for portable spas
are also available; the newer units no longer require remote
installation. However, with gas your portable will cease being
self-contained.
The support equipment necessary for an
in-ground spa always stands a short distance away, in its own
housing. Although this requires more planning and construction, it
allows you more choice in types and sizes of equipment. Before the
advent of the hot tub and the portable spa, the only spa available
was what the industry now calls in-ground. As the name implies,
these spas (made originally of poured concrete or concrete block)
were placed in a hole dug in the ground. Today, the term also refers
to spas set into an above grade surface, such as a deck.
Shopping for an in-ground spa usually means
choosing between a factory-molded shell of fiberglass reinforced
acrylic and the more expensive, longer-lasting concrete shell
constructed on site. But you can even get an in-ground spa made of
stainless steel. Each type offers a myriad of shapes and sizes from
which to choose.
If you're having a concrete swimming pool
constructed at the same time, the easiest and often least expensive
choice for the spa is to have it built from the same materials as
the pool. It can run on the same circulation system as the pool.
Although it's a less common and more expensive option, you can
choose concrete for a stand-alone in-ground spa that's not part of a
swimming pool. The spa will be formed on site by a pool contractor.
If you want to add only a spa, a manufactured
shell is probably a better choice. You can buy the entire
package-including equipment and installation-from a full service
dealer, who is licensed to both sell and install the spa. An
alternative is to buy a ready-made spa and the necessary support
equipment from a reputable dealer, then hire a contractor
recommended by the dealer to install it. Whatever type shell you
choose buy the best quality equipment you can afford, and make sure
it's sized appropriately for the spa.
Whether the shell is made of
fiberglass-reinforced acrylic or concrete, an in-ground spa
installation requires tearing up the garden-or deck-to some extent.
Plumbing and wiring lines need to be buried or hidden, and support
equipment has to be sheltered. Often the shell is fully or partially
recessed into an excavation. Now is a good time to consider any
other landscaping changes you want to make to your yard, since
there's going to be a lot of work going on there anyway.
While most pool companies do provide a design
service, if the spa is only one element of a major redesign for your
entire yard, consider hiring a landscape architect or contractor who
can handle everything for you.
Installing an in-ground spa involves more
planning, disruption, cost, and time than purchasing and setting up
an off-the-shelf portable. From the time construction starts, it may
be weeks before you can enjoy your first soak. On the other hand,
in-ground spas look well-integrated in their setting. They're often
set in a deck or patio built expressly to surround them, their lower
profile is less conspicuous, and they're likely to be professionally
landscaped.
Swim Spa
If you want to work out but don't have the
room for a lap pool, consider a swim spa instead. The difference is
in the jets. In a swim spa, the water is propelled by strong
countercurrent jets rather than by the hydrojets or paddle wheels
that move the water in a spa. Without moving forward an inch, a
swimmer can cover miles, simply by swimming against a constant
current.
Typically between 131/2 and 15 feet long, this
practical offshoot of the spa industry looks like an elongated
version of any other inground spa. The water temperature in a swim
spa is usually cooler, making it more conducive to an active
workout. In some models, if you want a relaxing soak, you can turn
on regular hydrojets and raise the water temperature. Others have a
removable partition that allows you to keep the water at one end hot
while the rest of the spa stays at a comfortable swimming
temperature.
Generally, swim spas are about 3 feet deep,
but deeper models-up to 8 feet-are available for exercising under
water. They can be installed either in or above the ground. And
depending on the model you buy, you can install it yourself or have
a professional do it.
In its heyday, the hot tub sprang up just
about everywhere in the West. Hundreds of thousands were built to
meet the demand. Many of these tubs have since deteriorated. Some of
them simply gave in to age, but others succumbed to shoddy
construction from inferior materials and poor craftsmanship.
Although the high tide of their popularity has ebbed considerably
since the 1970s, wooden spas or "hot tubs" still remain
the first choice of people who appreciate the natural beauty of wood
and its harmony with garden plants and trees. Tubs are also the
choice of those who want a deep soak. And for traditionalists, the
wooden tub still stands unrivaled for its timeless appeal.
The most common reason for hot tubs failure,
however, has been lack of adequate maintenance. Hot tubs, like any
other spas, require regular maintenance. Water chemistry must be
carefully controlled, the water must be changed periodically, and
the tub needs to be cleaned from time to time. A hot tub should
never be left empty for more than two days. If the unit is drained
and allowed to dry out, the wood staves can twist and cup (lift at
the edges), distorting the fit of the original coopering and making
the tub unusable.
Choosing a wood:
Most tubs are made from softwoods; redwood and
cedar are the most common, but cypress and teak are also used. These
tub woods have been chosen because they are sturdy and fairly
resistant to decay and chemical damage. In addition, they also offer
splinter-free surfaces. Sleek staves of wood, forming the watertight
curves of a hot tub, are the essence of its beauty. Wood, with its
comforting feel and pleasantly musky fragrance, enhances the appeal
of a soak, too.
Redwood is probably the most widely used wood
for hot tubs, especially along its native West Coast. It's extremely
resistant to decay, does not splinter, and swells easily to water
tightness. For strong, flawless staves and years of tubbing
pleasure, make sure that the unit is built of clear, kiln-dried,
vertical-grain heartwood (not the whitish sapwood). To accept less
is to risk problems in the future. A well-maintained redwood tub
will last about 15 years.
Cedar, the second most commonly used tub wood,
is similar to redwood. Both are porous softwoods; both are
decay-resistant only if the heartwood is selected. Cedar is slightly
less resistant to decay but a little more resistant to chemical
damage than is redwood. However, it also has a shorter life-span
than redwood.
Hardwoods such as oak and jarrah (a hardwood
grown and used in Australia for wine casks and pier pilings) have
sometimes been used for hot tubs, but are rarely used by commercial
manufacturers.
Coopering basics:
Coopering is a traditional craft of
barrel-making. Hot tubs are also built according to coopering
consisting of floorboards, staves, and metal hoops, with benches and
duckboards added afterward. The floorboards rest on floor joists,
which, at the permanent site, in turn rest on a concrete slab. To
distribute weight loads laterally, some floors use tongue-and-groove
joinery, others rely on a system of dowels.
The sides of the staves are beveled to ensure
a tight fit with their neighbors. A deep notch near the stave
bottom, called a croze, fits it to the flooring; the lower lip of
the stave is called its chine. The staves are not designed to bear
the weight of the tub and should not be resting on the floor joists.
When all the staves are fitted at the croze and to each other,
they're held together by from two to four steel hoops. Once the
hoops are tightened and the tub is filled with water, two forces
make it watertight: The wood swells as it soaks up water, tightening
the joints; at the same time, water pressure from within helps to
align the staves.
Filling the tub:
In a newly constructed tub, the joints between
the staves are not perfectly watertight, so before you can use the
tub you'll need to break it in. Essentially, you keep the tub filled
with water until the wood swells and seals up the joints tightly.
Fill the tub completely and let the water
overflow. Wait until there is no more water seeping out between the
staves. This usually takes about 24 hours. If the water continues to
gush out between the staves, contact the manufacturer or your
dealer; this would indicate improper milling or assembly.
Refill the tub and run the circulation system
continuously for two days; scrub the insides of the tub with a stiff
brush a couple of times a day Then keep draining, refilling, and
scrubbing the hot tub daily, until the tannin has all leached out of
the wood and the water remains clear. This will probably take a week
or so.
Clean the filter, fill the tub with fresh
water, and add the appropriate chemicals to treat the water. While
you're filling and draining the tub, have a look for slow, seeping
leaks between the staves. Such leaks are not usually along the whole
length of a stave, but just for a few inches. Monitor the rate of
seepage; if it slows down from one day to the next, then the leak
will probably stop as the wood continues to swell. If the rate
remains unchanged, you'll need to find some other way to close the
leak. You can caulk with a good grade of plastic marine putty, or
try the traditional method of filling the space with a bit of wool.
Contact your dealer for other techniques.
Sizes and seating:
A small hot tub measures 3 or 4 feet high by 5
feet across and holds approximately 500 gallons of water. A more
generous tub with a height of 4 feet and a diameter of 6 feet holds
just 850 gallons. You can also buy a 5foot-high tub, if you wish.
Seating arrangements in a tub are typically
more Spartan than in a molded spa shell, but they are adjustable for
height, which is an advantage. A bench around the inside of higher
tubs can hold from two to six people, depending on the tub's size.
In shorter tubs, you sit on the floor. Benches should be attached to
the tub with screws so they can be removed for maintenance and
repair.
Spa and hot tub industry is still young and is
changing rapidly. Although the reliability of many of its products
has been proven through years of service in the swimming pool
industry, the quality of its newest technology is, of course,
untested. That is why it is especially important to learn as much as
possible before making your purchase.
Assessing your needs:
Think about your situation and your
preferences, before you start shopping, Do you want a wood tub or an
acrylic shell? Talk to friends and neighbors who own one or the
other; visit a showroom to see the choices. Decide about the number
of people who will be soaking at one time. Do you plan to use the
spa socially, or will it be a more private experience? The answer
will guide you to the right shell size, seating arrangement, and
equipment.
Which is best for you, an indoor or outdoor
site? Obviously, for climate and privacy reasons, you may want an
indoor spa; if so, you'll have to be prepared to deal with the
resulting high humidity and the weight of a filled spa.
For an outdoor spa, consider how close you
want it to your house and where you will place the support
equipment. Also, be sure to take into account sun and wind patterns.
If you expect to do a lot of entertaining, you'll probably also want
to consider deciding, lighting, and landscaping around the spa or
tub.
Tips for Finding Reliable
Products
The only way you can be assured of choosing
quality products is to find out all you can about them first. Simply
by asking thoughtful questions and listening carefully to the
answers, you can often tell whether or not a dealer feels confident
about a product's reliability. This is also a good opportunity to
ask dealers about the services they offer, as well as specific
questions about delivery, installation, and warranties. Here are
some questions to get you started:
- Ask if the dealer will back up the
manufacturer's promises with a written warranty, so you'll still
be covered if the manufacturer goes out of business also What
kind of warranty comes with the shell and the support equipment?
Ask what would void the warranty, and what's not included.
- Does the spa carry the seal of the
International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO)?
Does support equipment carry the Underwriters Laboratories (UL)
listing? Is it listed with NSF International?
- Does the dealer charge for delivery? Get a
written agreement on how and where the spa will be delivered.
- Will the dealer provide written directions
and all chemicals needed for good maintenance? What services are
available in the future?
- If the spa is acrylic, how thick are the
sheets used in its manufacture? A 1/8-inch thickness is the
industry standard. Inspect an acrylic spa carefully for
fractures, chips, or delaminated spots before you buy it.
- If you're buying a portable spa, how thick
is the wood that makes up the skirt? Look for quality of wood,
hardware, and craftsmanship.
- For a portable, how thick is the foam
insulation sprayed inside? Some cabinets are completely filled,
providing excellent insulation for both the spa and supply
pipes, as well as greater structural stability.This insulation
results in lower energy costs, but plumbing connections must be
tested first, since these will be inaccessible once the foam is
applied.To find out about operating costs for various models,
ask to see documentation for comparison's sake.
- What kind of heater is offered? How fast
will it raise the water temperature to the desired level?
- How big is the filter? The size you'll need
depends on the size of the spa and its intended use. Is the
filter easy to remove for cleaning?
- Are the hydrojets adjustable? Are they
positioned correctly for your body? Some manufacturers offer a
selection of various jet positions and types. How much noise do
the hydrojets and blower make when operated together?
Warranty Protection
Your real protection, comes from the
warranties supplied by manufacturers so choose a reputable dealer is
the first step in ensuring that you'll get years of satisfaction
from your spa. Ask to see these warranties before you actually buy
the product. Read them carefully and discuss them with your dealer.
You should also talk about your responsibility in keeping the
warranty in force. No spa or hot tub can be expected to perform
trouble-free if it's abused or if proper maintenance is neglected.
Most spa manufacturers warranty different parts of their spas for
different periods of time.
Spa surfaces:
Most manufacturers of acrylic spas have
reduced the number of years on their warranties from as many as 10
to as few as one or two. Look for the longest warranty you can find.
Remember, however, that a warranty is only
good if the manufacturer is still in business to honor it. It's a
good idea to speak with your dealer about the financial stability of
the manufacturer and how quickly and effectively the manufacturer
has responded to claims in the past.
An important point to look at with any
warranty is whether the claims will be satisfied in the field or
whether the product must be shipped back to the manufacturer.
Another is the question of who performs the warranty service-the
dealer or a factory representative? Repairing shells can be tricky
and not all dealers have the capability It's also worth discussing
with your dealer whether the manufacturer you're considering will
replace the spa shell if you have a serious complaint. Obviously, no
manufacturer will replace your spa for a minor problem such as a
small blister that shows up in a few years. A large blister,
however, will encourage delamination, which would require
replacement of the spa.
Structural elements:
Most manufacturers offer warranties of at
least five years. This warranty does not cover problems with
in-ground spas that shift or settle; that's part of the contract
warranty you have with the person who installed your spa.
Equipment:
Look for a minimum one-year warranty on
equipment (pumps, filters, heaters, blowers, and controls). Be sure
that this period covers both parts and labor (some manufacturers
only offer 90 days on labor). Also confirm before you buy that you
won't have to disconnect and send in the defective equipment to get
warranty service.
Hot Tub Spa
Buyer's Guide | Pool & Swim Spa
Buyer's Guide |
