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Time clocks are becoming more and more popular
these days, perhaps for the convenience it offers. Once you
determine the filtration and the heating schedule, set the timer
clock, it does the rest, like, water circulation through the filter
and heating of the water and turning on the decorative lights and
the fountains. They have become the key component to a pool or spa.
Electromechanical Timers
The electromechanical timers are the time
clocks that are run by small motors and allow for many on/off
settings during a 24-hour day.
The small electric motor runs on the same
push-pull concept of opposing magnets as the motors used for pumps.
A winding is electrified that creates an electromagnetic field and
sets up the rotation, which happens at a predictable 400 rpm. The
only difference between a 110-volt and a 240-volt clock is that the
240-volt unit does not have a neutral line, but includes two
incoming lines and two outgoing loads for the equipment. The neutral
location is a ground.
A series of reduction gears in the motor
housing result in the actual drive gear turning at a speed that
rotates the dial just once every 24 hours. The pool time clock is
different from other time clocks in that it has only one hand, and
that hand remains still while the clock face rotates.
On and off trippers are used to set the clock.
The words "on" and "off" are labeled on the trippers. Set them for
the desired times, and the clock will control the flow of
electricity to a specific piece of machinery. To set the clock, you
simply pull the face toward you and rotate it until the number on
the dial, corresponding to the correct time of day, is under the
time pointer. After setting the correct time, release the dial and
it snaps back into position, re-engaging its drive gear with the
motor drive gear.
Screw terminals are located at the bottom of
the clock so it can be attached to the wires of the appliance like
motors, light, fixtures. Electricity flows into the clock from a
household circuit breaker. The wires feeding electricity to the
clock are wrapped on the line and neutral terminals (with a 240-volt
clock, the one lead would be attached to each line terminal). This
way there is a constant supply of electricity to the clock.
Waterproof boxes in metal or plastic are
available to house time clocks. Other versions have built-in
brackets that are designed to align with the screw holes on the
clock plate, and these are held in place by two machine screws. The
boxes are built with knock-out holes to accommodate wiring conduit
of various sizes and have predrilled holes in the back for mounting
the box to a wall.
Each appliance requires its own clock; that is
to say that if you want to run the heater and the pump and also the
filter, each will have its own set of timer. Only care should be
taken to remember that whenever the heater is on, the pump timer
must be set to shut off at least half an hour later. This gives the
pump time enough to clean the pipes of the circulating hot water.
Twist Timers
Twist timers are used mostly with booster
motors and blowers on spas. Whatever the twist timer is controlling
will remain on for the time period set. It is a mechanical timer
that has a spring loaded to unwind the minutes it is selected for.
Once the spring unwinds, the circuit breaks and shuts off the
appliance. A twist timer is built to fit in a typical light switch
box and contains no user serviceable parts. This unit has a
faceplate showing 15, 30, 45, or 60 minutes. The knob attached to
the shaft that comes through the faceplate is twisted until its
pointer or arrow aligns with the desired number of minutes.
Twist timers are handy and safe because there
is no way to forget to turn them off. This is important in a spa,
where you tend to forget the time spend in the spa. Twist timers are
good for controlling the lighting that is not to be kept on all
night.
Electronic Timers
Keeping up with today's electronics revolution
electronic timers are becoming more and more sophisticated. Most
spas are equipped with some such automatic controls. Spa control
packages also include electronic thermostats and other sophisticated
controls. The advantages of electronic controls are precision and
low voltage. Most have digital readouts so you can precisely set the
time and temperature desired, as well as programming a host of other
features. Lastly, most electronic devices have small backup
batteries so that when main power is interrupted, they don't lose
the time of day or previous programming.
See Timers Now
Repairs
Lubricating a time clock is the only service
and maintenance that a clock needs. Otherwise they are cheap enough
and can be replaced rather than fixing them.
Replacement
If a time clock fails, simply replace it. When
replacing a unit, make sure it has the same voltage as the original
clock. If it is housed in a waterproof box, buy the same brand to
ensure a correct fit.
Before starting the replacement, always
remember to shut off the electricity at the breaker. To disconnect
the clock, remove the load and line wires, and also the ground wires
from the clock. To replace the new clock, unscrew the old clock from
the box and screw in the new clock in place. Reattach the wires to
the appropriate line or load terminals, that is the electrical
supply wires attach to the line terminal and the two appliance wires
from the pool equipment attach to the load terminals. If line and
load is not marked, look for the screws where the clock motor is
connected. The two internal clock wires always are attached to the
line terminals. Turn in the power and test the clock by turning the
manual on/off lever to 'on'. Most of the clock have visual
inspection opening to see if it is operating.
Lubricating
A time clock can need lubricating and to
lubricate a time clock the first thing to do is to turn off the
power at the main service box. Remove the clock from the box leaving
the wires attached. Expose the back of the clock and spray
penetrating oil lubricant around the gears. Next spray the lubricant
on the gears behind the dial face. Do not get the lubricant in the
the electrical contacts. Place the clock into the box and turn on
the power. Check it a few times to work in the lubricant.
Mechanical failures
When you pull out the dial face of the clock
to set the time, take care that when you release it you get a true
reengagement of the dial with the motor drive gear. Try setting
different times on the clock and you will note that sometimes the
two gears don't mesh, but rather the dial gear sits on top of the
motor gear. Obviously, in this case the clock won't work.
The answer is to wiggle the dial face as you
release it. As you release it, twist the dial back and forth very
slightly in your hand to make sure the gears mesh. With a few
practice settings you'll feel the difference between a dial that has
gone back into place completely and one that is slightly hung up.
Often, clocks that don't work are a result of this setting problem,
so make this one of the first things you check when you suspect time
clock failure.
The second mechanical problem of time clocks
is with the trippers. if the screw is not twisted tightly on the
face of the clock, they come loose and rotate around the dial,
pushed by the control lever instead of doing the pushing themselves.
Check the trippers regularly because they can come loose over time
or from system vibration.
Settings
When setting on/off trippers, you can place
them on the dial face side by side to what appears to be about 30
minutes between them. I have found that when they are too close,
they won't operate the lever. Generally, trippers must be at least
an hour apart to operate.
Make frequent checks of your time clocks.
Power outages, someone working at the house who shuts off all the
power, the twice yearly daylight savings time changes, and any
number of other household situations can interrupt power to the time
clock. Each time this happens, the clock stops and needs to be reset
when the power returns in order to reflect the correct time.
Used mostly with spa equipment, remote control
devices allow you to operate pumps, heaters, lights, blowers, and
other devices without actually going to the spa. Such devices are
also available with switches at or in the spa, so you can control
appliances without getting out.
Remote control devices fall into two
categories: those operated by pneumatic (air) switches and those
operated by electronic wireless switches.
Air Switches
Pool and spa air switches operate on the idea
of compressed air in a hose, you force a switch to go on, off, or to
a new operating position. A man named Len Gordon pioneered these
devices with push buttons for pool and spa.
Air is forced into a flexible plastic tube by
depressing the plunger in the middle. The force is transmitted along
the air tube until it reaches a simple, bellows-actuated
electromechanical switch at the other end, turning it on, off, or to
another position. These Air switches operate up to 200 feet from the
button.
Besides simple on/off switches, some activate
a rotating wheel, which in turn activates up to four switches. You
push the button once to turn on the circulation pump and heater, a
second push to add a blower, a third push to add a booster, and a
fourth push to turn it all off. Most of these four-function units
allow combinations that vary the pattern, depending on your use
preference or the additional equipment you have.
You can mount this type of button near or even
in the spa, for the electrical part of the air switch is usually
located in a waterproof box, housing the wiring connections. In some
units there is a small electromechanical time clock that can operate
one or more appliances at preset times in addition to the activation
by the air switch button.
There is little chance of anything that might
need servicing or repair except the hose. So the troubleshooting is
easy and simple.
Troubleshooting
With the air switches, the problem can be the
button, the hose, or the electrical switch. Disconnect the hose from
the switch nipple and place another hose on the nipple and blow
through it. If the switch operates, then the problem is in the hose
or button. Do the same to check the button. Usually the problem is
with the hose. But if the problem are with switch or the button
replace them.
Air leaks
You may have an air leak in the hose when the
equipment fails to activate with a push of the button. If you can
reach both ends of the hose, tape the new hose to the old, at either
end, and pull the old hose out. But if you cannot access the hose
ends then you have to follow the replacement procedures.
Replacement
When you remove the center button portion, if
there is no slack in the air hose, the hose might come off the end
of the button and might be hard to reach for attachment to the new
button. Try pushing the hose from the other end, the end attached to
the electrical switch box toward the button to force it back out of
the conduit. If there just isn't enough hose, pull out the old hose
and run an electrician's snake through the conduit. When the end
comes out, tape the new hose to it and pull the snake back through.
Now you can attach the hose ends to the button and the switch. You
will find that not all air hoses are run in conduit. Because they
have no water or electricity in them, there are no standards or
rules about running a length of hose.
New installation
Original installation of an air switch system
is not difficult, but should be done by the electrician.
Troubleshooting
With the air switches, the problem can be the
button, the hose, or the electrical switch. Disconnect the hose from
the switch nipple and place another hose on the nipple and blow
through it. If the switch operates, then the problem is in the hose
or button. Do the same to check the button. Usually the problem is
with the hose. But if the problem are with switch or the button
replace them.
Air leaks
You may have an air leak in the hose when the
equipment fails to activate with a push of the button. If you can
reach both ends of the hose, tape the new hose to the old, at either
end, and pull the old hose out. But if you cannot access the hose
ends then you have to follow the replacement procedures.
Replacement
When you remove the center button portion, if
there is no slack in the air hose, the hose might come off the end
of the button and might be hard to reach for attachment to the new
button. Try pushing the hose from the other end, the end attached to
the electrical switch box toward the button to force it back out of
the conduit. If there just isn't enough hose, pull out the old hose
and run an electrician's snake through the conduit. When the end
comes out, tape the new hose to it and pull the snake back through.
Now you can attach the hose ends to the button and the switch. You
will find that not all air hoses are run in conduit. Because they
have no water or electricity in them, there are no standards or
rules about running a length of hose.
New installation
Original installation of an air switch system
is not difficult, but should be done by the electrician.
Wireless Remote Control
Due to convenience in use, in the past few
years, wireless remotes have gained popularity. These are composed
of a battery-powered wireless sending unit with anything from 4 to
24 buttons in a waterproof case and low voltage for safe water-side
use. The buttons send a signal to a receiver that might be as much
as 1500 feet away that is usually mounted in the pool or spa
equipment area. The receiver interprets which button has been
pressed and activates a switch that turns on or off that piece of
equipment. In essence, it works just like the air switch, except the
signal is sent by radio signal instead of compressed air.
Some units do not have batteries, but plug
into any household outlet. When you press the button, the signal is
sent along the household wiring to the receiver, wherever it is
located, which is powered by the same household current. Obviously,
because these sending units are powered by 120-volt household
current, they cannot be located near the body of water. The value of
these is that they are not subject to battery failure or weak radio
signals that sometimes fail to penetrate thick walls or long
distances.
There are too many makes and models of these
wireless remotes to detail the wiring or technical data for
installation or repair. As with a new air switch system, you might
want to include your friendly neighborhood electrician in the price
of installing a new system. Many are sold in modules that allow you
to configure any system arrangement you wish, adding modules to
existing wiring and equipment.
As mentioned, the main failure of these units
is that the battery becomes weak or the radio signal cannot
penetrate thick walls or long distances between the spa and
equipment location. |
