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#476 - 06/06/07 10:44 AM
Hayward heater banging!
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Tom
Enthusiast
Registered: 06/06/07
Posts: 5
(70.18.123.118)
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I have a Hayward H100 gas pool heater. It sounds like it has marbles in it and bangs loudly. I have sufficient flow and I pulled the heat exchanger and ran a diluted muratic acid solution through it to be sure I had no calcium deposits, it is clear and still bangs. I have always watched my PH closely. Any suggestions appreciated.
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#478 - 06/06/07 06:43 PM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Tom]
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Greg340
Moderator
Registered: 05/26/07
Posts: 93
Loc: chula vista ca
(72.88.228.205)
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its a water flow problem. how do you know its getting enough flow through the heater? there is a bypass/ governor in the header it could be bad. is it plumbed properly?
Edited by Greg340 (06/06/07 06:53 PM)
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#479 - 06/07/07 05:48 AM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Greg340]
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Tom
Enthusiast
Registered: 06/06/07
Posts: 5
(70.18.123.118)
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I may be wrong but from my understanding the heater will not ignite with low water flow and it ignites without any problems. Are you referring to low flow through the heater or just the heat exchanger? The heater has been running fine for over a year so I know it isn't a plumbing issue. You refered to a bypass in the header, is there a way to test it? Thanks for your help as Hayward does not even respond to an Email.
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#482 - 06/07/07 08:27 PM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Tom]
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Greg340
Moderator
Registered: 05/26/07
Posts: 93
Loc: chula vista ca
(72.88.228.205)
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It shouldn't fire if the flow is low but if its got a bad pressure switch it will. The H100 doesn't have a bypass. There might be one built inside the exchanger but it would not be replaceable. What type of pump& filter do you have? Is it the same as last year? Did this problem start right after the pool was opened?
Edited by Greg340 (06/07/07 08:31 PM)
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#495 - 06/09/07 01:49 PM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Greg340]
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Buster
Expert
Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 78
Loc: Texas
(70.238.202.22)
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As Greg says, the heater can ignite if the pressure switch has failed in the closed position. But the banging sounds to me as though you didn't bleed the heat exchanger after running the acid solution through it, if there is air in the system it will allow the water to flash to steam causing a banging sound. To fix this simply open the winterizing drain cock or valve, whichever it is equiped with and turn on the pump for about 60 seconds, if I'm right it will spit and sputter for a bit then you will get a steady stream of water, turn off the pump and replace the drain cock, or if it has a valve just shut it down with the pump running. The banging should stop.
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#502 - 06/11/07 08:12 AM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Buster]
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Tom
Enthusiast
Registered: 06/06/07
Posts: 5
(76.49.171.239)
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I agree it does seem like trapped air but Hayward didn't put a drain or bleeder on this heater. For winterizing they say use a shop vac to blow it out. It has been running for a month this season without a problem and then it just started. Any other suggestions appreciated.
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#3667 - 05/29/11 10:17 AM
Re: Hayward heater banging!
[Re: Tom]
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Jim Hoerner
Newbie
Registered: 05/29/11
Posts: 1
(24.56.121.209)
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I realize this thread is old, but it comes up as one of the first search results on google, and I went crazy fixing this problem myself so I wanted to post my solution.
The banging, creaking, pinging, and shaking is caused by insufficient flow through the heat exchanger, and the water is flashing to steam. It is not safe to operate the heater when this is happening.
The reduced flow can be caused by the following conditions:
- dirty filter/pump basket (you would not have sufficient flow in more than just the heat exchanger if this is your problem)
- bypass valve in front header stuck open (most likely)
- thermostatic control valve in front header stuck closed (can remove it to test)
- obstruction in piping/heater such as pool vinyl, rock, frog, etc. An obstruction in the heater can be observed by removing the rear header and turning on your pump (heater off). Flow should come out of all tubes after a few seconds).
- eroded rear header internals (my problem this time). There is a divider plate molded as part of the rear header that wears away over time (10 years for me). If eroded enough, it will allow flow to travel from one side of the rear header to the other, bypassing heat exchanger tubing.
- worn pump impeller (you would not have sufficient flow in more than just the heat exchanger if this is your problem)
Best regards,
Jim
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